If i was to build a grow tent

[uh-oh]

THEORETICALLY. i think this is everything i would acquire and put together. mainly posting for Hush so he has all this info in one place. i've become fond of TOMATOES and after researching for awhile this is what i've come up with for growing them, all organic

tent - vivosun 48''x48''x80''
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01731MNJE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

light - mars hydro tsw2000
https://www.amazon.com/MARS-HYDRO-Spectrum-Updated-Growing/dp/B07PLYR5HG

air filtration - vivosun 4'' kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFRNPR8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

dehumidifier - eva-dry edv1100
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H0ZDD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

humidifier - homech cool mist
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085CD13TL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

humidity controller - inkbird digital prewired dual stage controller
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQKXRXA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ambient fans - genesis 6 inch clip on x4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012BKZC86/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

soil ph meter- sonkir soil ph meter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR52P26/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

liquid ph meter - vivosun ph and tds meter combo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XKMH86J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ph control liquids - atlas scientific ph up and down
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P1MQWK4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

pots - gardzen 5 gallon grow bags
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YDV51Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

plant saucers for runoff- youniversal 16''
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JHIKN7K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

support/training wire - all purpose 328 feet twist tie
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W6VD3XD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

grow medium - canna coco brick, perlite
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010OG1MVA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FGGCWW7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

fertilizer/amendments - dr earth 4-4-4, and dr earth 3-9-4
https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Earth-Premium-Purpose-Fertilizer/dp/B0047BIVV8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=dr+earth+4-4-4&qid=1593991666&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Earth-707P-Organic-Fertilizer/dp/B0047COGFW/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=dr+earth&qid=1593991653&sr=8-2

--------------------

things im going to look into if i ever get around to actually building and growing TOMATOES, in terms of when it comes HARVEST time.

microscope for inspecting when they're RIPE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D96ERFU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=A2B8716URS7F1&psc=1
trimmers-fiskars
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SD76/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A1SV1BYDTUK2Z5&psc=1
bin for trimming - trim bin
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4NJSBE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
curing jars - 32oz mason jars
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HGG3DD1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1LPSL2YR1942T&psc=1
humidity monitoring during cure -binfrog digital humidity meters
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCGDN5C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1B8M1Z52DBCEB&psc=1
humidity control during cure - homlux 2 way pack
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TXNDFYQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A397FHMFRQNEQC&psc=1
scale- digital foods scale
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JTDG084/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A21JAYJNFQ9DBU&psc=1

---------------------

whew. its been a couple weeks now i think. maybe a week i dunno since i got this idea and it hasn't left my dumb brain and ive been obsessively researching and searching for quality shit and methods. this is what i've come up with so far. if i was to order all this and begin i would've ordered these special wedding cake autobloom tomatoe's to give it a go.

i'd be growing 4 of them. each in a 5 gallon bucket.

for the soil i'd use the coco i linked instead, its relatively inert, no nutrients in it, and i'd be doing like a 4 or 5 to 1 ratio of the coco and perlite. the fertilizer and nutrients go into that as well but the feeding cycle changes throughout its life, but for the first soil mix prior to planting a 5 gallon pot would take around 20 tablespoons, and it'd be like a 70/30 mix of the 4-4-4 and 3-9-4.

from there though i would only water them, but i'd ph balance the water to 6.3-6.8 ish since the medium is coco to ensure the roots can uptake the slow organic nutrients mixed in the coco. but as they age i would topdress with the two solutions progressively looking to flip it so the final feed would be basically the opposite but top feeding/dressing also requires much less than the initial mix btw, i think its half i got the DOCUMENTS somewhere lol.

the light could realistically be upgraded to the 3000, but im not trying to completely fill the tent to bursting. the light linked is rated for 4x4 veg, but only 3x3 bloom. shit outside the 3x3 radius is still getting quality light, just not the full on blast (i guess). the videos i seen using the light show some HEARTY tomato's tho.

also for humidity, both the dehumidifier and humidifer plug into the humidity controller. you set a humidity range with it and they will kick on and off as needed. i specifically chose those two cheapo units because they have a POWER SWITCH. not a digital interface. when the controller turns the units off, its like you unplug them from the wall. any digital humidifer/dehumidifers will need to be manually turned on and off and reset etc. these you can just switch on and off and they run until full or empty respectively. so this way the controller can work efficiently.

i thought about supplementing co2 as well, and UV lighting. the light comes with a solid IR spectrum but not UV. UVB is dangerous but can help with toughening the plants. they will secrete more delicious oils to protect themselves from the radiation and if used sparingly won't damage them. but the only solution i could find is like another 150 dollar light setup and it needs to be centered, so i might be able to run 2 to even it out (one on either side of the main light) but who would want to spend another 300 on something that only helps a little that you barely use toward the end of the life cycle. i'm gonna look into it in the future tho. but yea co2 is another thing that could boost the overall yield but its not as effective in such a small grow. the extra juice it provides is only worth it if you got like a warehouse lol, since supplementing co2 is expensive. you can just mix sugar water and yeast and get some too if youre worried about it but also a co2 monitor is ridiculously expensive. basically isn't worth it to care. just circulate air and the tomatoes will be fine.

but word.

long ass post but if anyone was interested in growing tomatos this is a solid amount of info and starting points, without having to literally obsessively search for like a week and read a bunch of idiot pseudo science from filthy hippies. you can go smaller. especially with the autobloom crops since they don't get very big. this is probably overkill but if i do ever decide to venture this path i'd like to have pretty much everything needed for optimum results

[UserName]

“Tomatoes”

[Hush]

I will be “buying” these same items if I were to grow myself some nice asparagus

[Inno]

I’ll be your test monkey send those tomato’s my way

[Zaddy]

Idk about any of this but I can sure pitch a tent in the mornings

[the Munster]

I can’t fuck with coco. Might as well save yourself the hassle and do full hydro

Organic soil is what you do

But I didn’t read but a few sentences of your post

[the Munster]

But I see your suggesting dry ferts in coco. Tried it before and it just didn’t work for me. Like they died lol. I’m sure it was my fault but I never tried again. Organic soil

[uh-oh]

word this will be my first attempt and im just following some youtuber dudes method. it seemed the most straightforward and least likely to fuck it up. and since ill be doing the autoflowers its only like a 7-10 week run in total so i only have to feed it like twice

alot of the soils come packed with nutrients so you can overfeed and burn the plants up i guess? its gonna take me awhile before i can figure out if somethings dying because too much or not enough of X. so i figured this way would be the easiest since im responsible for everything they get and im not guessing when the soil runs out etc

i was looking at fox farm soils tho, like ocean forest and liquid nutrients but again it just seemed kinda overwhelming lol

but word i've got no experience at all this is just all research from forums and youtube. will definitely be trial and error

i also added a fishtank air pump and stone to the list. to dechlorinate tap water faster. was gonna use purified water but im reading the calcium and minerals in tap water is good and more than enough so you don't need to supplement more. basically throw the bubbles in a bucket of water for an hour and voila

im hype to try all this tho

[Artifice]

be careful boys...

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51YNGC6YCBL._SY445_.jpg

[the Munster]

You can use ocean forest.

You can also you espoma potting mix. Which would be a better option for autos

What I did in the past: 6 parts espoma mix; 3 parts perlite (buy a big bag from hd for ~$17) 2 parts compost (earthworm castings, I actually use a product that is half cow manure half chicken manure). Then add calmag. Doesn’t matter if you use espoma calmag or the big bag from hd or Lowe’s for $5, although the big bag is definitely more cost efficient if you decide to continue.

Then add your dry ferts. Personally I would layer it. Nothing for the first gallon. Then 4-4-4 for the next gal or so. Then the 3-9-4 for the bottom gal or two. Then all you would have to do is water with tap water/dechlorinator and add compost tea after about four weeks or so. You would do the compost tea once a week say Monday, then water weds and fri

And don’t overwater. water a party cup full or water each time the seedling needs water, gradually increasing the amount of cups you give it as it gets bigger and fills pot. Using this method I incorporate whatever else I would want to give my tomatoes on Monday’s. And I have some phenomenal recipes that I will not be sharing in open discussions I can pm you once you get to that point

If you use ocean forest use one tablespoon of dry ferts per gal. If you use espoma use two. For my last run I used espoma and two tablespoons per of nature’s care 9-2-6 for veg and switched to half espoma with a mixture of garden tone 3-4-4 and bulb tone 3-5-3. The other half is using soil king big rootz instead of espoma but that’s only because the gardening place ran out of espoma soil so I had to go elsewhere. I also have a bag of ocean forest just in case I ran out but I didn’t do everything is perfect and I will use that bag on the next run for a side by side beside big rootz.


If you aren’t making a tea then you can just add fish tank dechlorinator to water instead using pump. Really even when I use pump I still use that stuff, it works instantly

[the Munster]

I rarely ph using my method too but in your case you would definitely want a liquid ph test and you can forgot the soil test all together but spend he extra money if you want to feel safe but you can do a soil test with the liquid test, by simply doing a slurry test. Mixing half a handful of soil (1 part) with about 5-6 parts distilled water and then agitate it then test the water with water ph test

Although with my recipes of compost tea the ph is usually 6.8-7.0 every time without fail

[the Munster]

He’s suggesting coco for yield but the taste difference between soil and coco will make you forget coco although you would yield more in coco. But it taste like tap water

[Geno]

You did your homework

[Cred]

Your electric bill is what u have to worry bout, need to stop that meter occasionally

Anything over the normal use. Challenge on the play

That being said I’ll buy ALL your tomatoes htl

[the Munster]

Also unless you have specific reasons on why you want to do auto flowers fuck autos. Get a set of feminized photos from a reliable source and pick out a mother from the set. I can tell you exactly how to do things bro from beginning to continuous the choice is yours. Notice I didn’t say from beginning to end.

[UserName]

Starting to get the sense this isn’t about tomatoes

[Diode]

be careful boys...

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51YNGC6YCBL._SY445_.jpg

good reference.

[uh-oh]

Word eddie you're the man. Ima give this first run a go with the coco medium and shit first, and im only doing autos cuz the quick turnaround and I plan on using the tent to dry them too. Im not looking to sell my tomatoes just tryna get a ton for personal pasta purposes lol

But word once I get the first batch I should be good for awhileeeeee so I might go with regular feminized ones. Veg the fuck out of them and try to fill every square inch of the tent with an even canopy with a net before going bloom.

Ima hit you up for sure.

But word also with the autos ima just throw my light timer on 18-6 and forget about it. Just adjusting the height of it. There is also a dimming setting ill have to figure out how to adjust during the life cycles. Like you're supposed to start out low and gradually crank it. But i might just crank it from the jump and keep it far away from them and just gradually move it down i dunno

[the Munster]

Also in 7 weeks your tomatoes will only be about half way done in my experience. You will need to add at least 5 more weeks and pray that it actually finishes in 12 weeks

[Bomb Bard]

Also in 7 weeks your tomatoes will only be about half way done in my experience. You will need to add at least 5 more weeks and pray that it actually finishes in 12 weeks

How are you with identifying Deficiencies?

[the Munster]

How are you with identifying Deficiencies?

What’s the problem

[Ouch]

Just majorly do your research like you've already done. A friend of mine grew tomatoes indoors in a small apartment. He dedicated one of the rooms, which was decent sized to 'tomatoes'. Wall to wall had like an irrigation system set up, I'd seen it a lot of times but never really asked specifics.

I was surpised no one noticed, because his light bill was probably like 100x higher than anyone else in that complex. He could legally grow, but only a certain ammount... and had to have certain people on a list to be a care giver for tomatoes. And he was doing way way way more than.

He quit growing since things became legal here. Theres no money in it.


Just do what you're doing keep researching shit online, I really doubt anyone on here has an major wisdom to impart.

[Hush]

Your electric bill is what u have to worry bout, need to stop that meter occasionally

Anything over the normal use. Challenge on the play

That being said I’ll buy ALL your tomatoes htl

I just moved here so I think I can slide under the radar


We need to talk broski

[the Munster]

Wait how did everyone know his light bill was 100x higher than anyone in the complex to notice? Wall to wall coverage and there was no money in it? That doesn’t really make sense bro. Especially when you would be legally buying tomatoes for yourself to eat right? Nothing you said in your little story made sense. Sound like a crackhead talking

[DMS]

I swear y’all have terrible grammar. It does be wack

[Bomb Bard]

What’s the problem

I think one of my girls was getting nute burn but looks fine today

[uh-oh]

The whole operation is like 500ish watts. Fans humidity etc and the light. The LED only pulls 300 watts from the wall

Its gonna be less than putting in a window air conditioner

[Hush]

The whole operation is like 500ish watts. Fans humidity etc and the light. The LED only pulls 300 watts from the wall

Its gonna be less than putting in a window air conditioner

This is why I need you in my life b

[the Munster]

The whole operation is like 500ish watts. Fans humidity etc and the light. The LED only pulls 300 watts from the wall

Its gonna be less than putting in a window air conditioner

Yea I found it odd that people kept saying something about electric bill when you clearly posted a 300w light

Thats how you know when people know what the fuck they talkin bout tho it’s the little details

Im actually pretty curious as to what that lil thang can do

[uh-oh]

the fucker bangs

allegedly. i'm only going off youtube vids at this point though, and i fired it up in my tent and its bright as fuck, i mean if i end up buying it and making this setup lol.

back in the day my boy used the HPS and all that type old school set up, but everything i'm seeing is the LED world has surpassed it. from color spectrum to lumens to efficiency

they might think its a 2000 watt from the name though, the w in tsw stands for wide, because they make a tsl too. the L being long.

its gonna be more than enough light for what i'm doing though.

what type of lights you fucking with eddie? also when you did a coco run were you using bottled nutrients? maybe thats what was burning em since it was so readily available with the roots being able to breathe and shit better? again i havent even started so all i know is what i'm regurgitating from shit i seen online lol

the one main thing that comes across is overfeeding though and how everyone does it early on and thats where most issues come from. which is why i wanted to get away from pre treated soils and try and control it all on my own

[uh-oh]

this is the light i linked in a 3x3 tent. my tents a 4x4. i can't find any videos with tomatoes to show though. its strange

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8a1sLb8Rvw&

[the Munster]

I do not use any lights or grow anything, but I have heard that the gavita pro e is pretty nice as long as you have you temps under control.

That light you have is perfect for what you’re trying to accomplish however I think if you haven’t bought beans yet, and have the time you should ditch the autoflower shit and go with fem heavy hitters

But I also feel like you should do what you want to do meaning please do not let me steer you away from anything at all and go for the auto route if that what you see yourself doing. Just keep in mind that time frame they quoted is for after veg period which is dependent on several factors, but the most impactful factor is pot size. You are in a five gal so once you plant has filled the pot then the 7-8 week period begins meaning you will have 1 week of baby seedling time, 5-6 weeks veg time and if you aren’t using garden lime then you need to use calmag tspoon per gal for every single time you water

[the Munster]

Katsu

[uh-oh]

word i hear alot about cal mag, im just gonna try to play it by ear though and see how they do. if they look deficient i'll start hitting em

the tomato seeds are enroute. im going to definitely go the regular route on the next batch though, im also curious as to how stinky its gonna be, so the auto's being a quicker turnaround, and smaller plant will give me a good idea of if i need to maybe get another carbon filter and figure out more methods for killing stank

but yea giving the wedding cake autos a go. supposed to be a delicious nutritious tomato strain lol. but its also rated as super easy and beginner level, relatively stable and hard to fuck up.

im gonna try to low stress train them and shit

could go horribly wrong lol, but i want a lot of normal tomatoes, and not just one big tomato off each plant lol

[the Munster]

word i hear alot about cal mag, im just gonna try to play it by ear though and see how they do. if they look deficient i'll start hitting em

the tomato seeds are enroute. im going to definitely go the regular route on the next batch though, im also curious as to how stinky its gonna be, so the auto's being a quicker turnaround, and smaller plant will give me a good idea of if i need to maybe get another carbon filter and figure out more methods for killing stank

but yea giving the wedding cake autos a go. supposed to be a delicious nutritious tomato strain lol. but its also rated as super easy and beginner level, relatively stable and hard to fuck up.

im gonna try to low stress train them and shit

could go horribly wrong lol, but i want a lot of normal tomatoes, and not just one big tomato off each plant lol

If you don’t use cal mag in coco your plants will DIE

[the Munster]

Training is easy but a tad more difficult to accomplish with an auto

[uh-oh]

word the mix im gonna be using plus tap water should have enough calcium/magnesium allegedly. im gonna grab some calmag as well tho just in case. but yea the autos don't get very big depending on the strain so can't really get that many bends on it before its too late, short window type deal allegedly

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnZa0v4p43M&

thats basically the type of medium ima use, and he uses no liquid nutrients, the fertilizers or whatever take care of everything. but i have been googling and found forums that criticize him because he is a veteran grower and can read his plants and know what and when they're lacking. he has other vids making compost teas and shit to fix stuff, but ive only seen him use them when he actually forgets to top dress when its needed

and since its autoflowers i think i only top dress them twice. once after about a month (the initial feed thats mixed with the soil runs out) and then once more about 3 weeks after that. after another 3 weeks or so it should be about ready to harvest as it soaks up the last bit of nutrients

but again thats a rough overview

he's got a ton of vids tho and his shit comes out crazy fat.

but word while it seems like a simple straightforward method the main criticism im finding is he MAKES it look simple because he knows how to quickly diagnose and fix shit

ima give it a go tho

trial and error and all that shit

[the Munster]

word the mix im gonna be using plus tap water should have enough calcium/magnesium allegedly. im gonna grab some calmag as well tho just in case. but yea the autos don't get very big depending on the strain so can't really get that many bends on it before its too late, short window type deal allegedly

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnZa0v4p43M&

thats basically the type of medium ima use, and he uses no liquid nutrients, the fertilizers or whatever take care of everything. but i have been googling and found forums that criticize him because he is a veteran grower and can read his plants and know what and when they're lacking. he has other vids making compost teas and shit to fix stuff, but ive only seen him use them when he actually forgets to top dress when its needed

and since its autoflowers i think i only top dress them twice. once after about a month (the initial feed thats mixed with the soil runs out) and then once more about 3 weeks after that. after another 3 weeks or so it should be about ready to harvest as it soaks up the last bit of nutrients

but again thats a rough overview

he's got a ton of vids tho and his shit comes out crazy fat.

but word while it seems like a simple straightforward method the main criticism im finding is he MAKES it look simple because he knows how to quickly diagnose and fix shit

ima give it a go tho

trial and error and all that shit

Not gonna lie to you at all bro didn’t click play.. but you need to put GARDEN LIME TWO TABLESPOONS PER GALLON in addition to the dry nutes. I’m going to watch the vid later and see if he mentions this, because you absolutely have to have either garden lime mixed in or you have to use liquid calmag or your plants will die in coco, and this is a fact regardless of what any videos say.

[uh-oh]

the vid just shows his coco/nutrient mix

im guessing its probably whats in the dry fertilizer shit, like the ingredients and all that where the nitrogen phospate etc all that comes from. he uses gaia green but they don't make that in the states which is why i went with dr. earth its basically an equivalent

the initial mix is 4 tbsp's per gallon of coco/perlite, and since that allegedly will feed and keep them going for around a month just itself i assume it has a bit of everything it needs

[the Munster]

Not familiar with that brand. Follow the directions on the package of whatever u purchase it will probably say 1-2 tablespoons every 6-8 weeks or something along those lines. There is no brand I’m aware of that says to use 4

Gaia Green - All Purpose 4-4-4
Good for all landscape and garden plants, including trees, shrubs, all fruit and vegetables. INGREDIENTS: alfalfa meal, bone meal, blood meal, glacial rock dust, mined potassium sulphate, fossilised carbon complex, rock phosphate, greensand, kelp meal, and gypsum.

This doesn’t have lime. If I were you I would use liquid calmag. You have autoflower doing something like not adding calmag would destroy your harvest. Autos already have a limited veg as is and any set backs with really hurt you vs using a photoperiod.

My bad I just remembered you’re using dr earth lol. I already know that dr earth doesn’t have lime either, or if it does you still have to add more, because there literally is no dry fert out there where you wouldn’t need lime. Just saying

[the Munster]

Even if you don’t need it it would help you more than hurt, especially in flower. But I would use it in veg without question, but only because I’ve seen them die. Right in front of me. Started adding cal mag, some tomatoes made it some didn’t bro. Autoflowers it’s a good chance none of em make it or they become something that you do not want

[the Munster]

Uh oh I watched video

For medium he is using

MOKOKO premium coco substrate carries the Dutch RHP stamp of quality guaranteeing all processes have been stringently monitored from raw materials to production and storage. 100% recyclable MO’KOKO is an excellent alternative for the environmentally conscious grower.
- RHP certified to ensure the highest physical and chemical specifications have been met
- Excellent for cultivating ornamental plants,vegetables and potted plants.
- Pre-washed and buffered to prevent calcium and magnesium lockout while stabilizing pH values.
- Low EC value.
- Free of harmful parasites and disease.
- Completely recyclable and renewable.
- Excellent air to water ratio.
- Can be used alone as a soilless medium or as a conditioner with other grow media.





Are you using this same exact coco uh oh? If not what are you using? The part I bolder let’s you know that they’ve added garden lime to this coco. I tried to find “ingredients” and on forst google I could not find exact ingredients, but I’m 99% percent sure that if you find contents or ingredients it will mention either garden lime or ground up oyster shell or something similar to keep the ph stabilized and also to add calcium magnesium

If you just use regular coco without any of this then you need to 1. Add cal mag and 2. Absolutely make sure your ph is within 5.9-6.5(this is why I initially tried to shy you away from coco)

But even if it does have lime I still would add calmag lol. That’s just me tho and what I’ve learned from experience, and I have to add it in soil in flower so I know I would still do it in coco because coco is way more inert and nutes wash out way more easier in coco

But imma stop repeating myself

I see you linked canna coco brick, which is different from Mokoko and does not have lime or any equivalent
Good luck bro

[the Munster]

It’s funny to me too tho, I went through the comments and I actually see people asking “so how much lime do I add” and he doesn’t answer it’s really fucked up that he doesn’t tell you guys that part lol

[Mac]

Starting to get the sense this isn’t about tomatoes

oh god. it was actually very wholesome to think they were working together to make a tomato garden

I'm so disappointed and sad now, how do I unsee this

[uh-oh]

Uh oh I watched video

For medium he is using

MOKOKO premium coco substrate carries the Dutch RHP stamp of quality guaranteeing all processes have been stringently monitored from raw materials to production and storage. 100% recyclable MO’KOKO is an excellent alternative for the environmentally conscious grower.
- RHP certified to ensure the highest physical and chemical specifications have been met
- Excellent for cultivating ornamental plants,vegetables and potted plants.
- Pre-washed and buffered to prevent calcium and magnesium lockout while stabilizing pH values.
- Low EC value.
- Free of harmful parasites and disease.
- Completely recyclable and renewable.
- Excellent air to water ratio.
- Can be used alone as a soilless medium or as a conditioner with other grow media.





Are you using this same exact coco uh oh? If not what are you using? The part I bolder let’s you know that they’ve added garden lime to this coco. I tried to find “ingredients” and on forst google I could not find exact ingredients, but I’m 99% percent sure that if you find contents or ingredients it will mention either garden lime or ground up oyster shell or something similar to keep the ph stabilized and also to add calcium magnesium

If you just use regular coco without any of this then you need to 1. Add cal mag and 2. Absolutely make sure your ph is within 5.9-6.5(this is why I initially tried to shy you away from coco)

But even if it does have lime I still would add calmag lol. That’s just me tho and what I’ve learned from experience, and I have to add it in soil in flower so I know I would still do it in coco because coco is way more inert and nutes wash out way more easier in coco

But imma stop repeating myself

I see you linked canna coco brick, which is different from Mokoko and does not have lime or any equivalent
Good luck brothe canna coco is prewashed and buffered as well, but that just means its been rinsed of all the excess salts that accumulate, which can block your plants from uptaking nutes. it doesn't have lime added? . but word its rhp certified and has a ph of 5.9-7

the canna coco itself i mean. so its basically the same shit just a different brand. im worried about fungus gnats tho bout to cop sticky traps and NEMATOADS to be safe lol

but word i got some cal mag AIGHT. FUCK. nutrients wash out of coco easy when you're using bottled nutrients. which is why im going the organic dry shit. i don't want to use cal mag or any of that unless i absolutely have to. i don't know why im being stubborn on it. even tho theyre organic bottled nutrients its still weird to me pouring fluids other than water on it lol

but yea i know the PH is gonna be the key, i'm gonna shoot for 6.2 for all waterings, and gonna check my coco mix as well prior to planting anything, im guessing you can bring it down by just flushing it with a lower ph water? cuz the brick said it has a range of 5.9 to 7 right out of the bag.

but word the ph range you described is what the plants will actually need to absorb any nutrients. at least thats what im learning.

i seen him use dolomite lime? the dude in the vid but i feel it was a different scenario, maybe in one of the teas he used to save plants. but there was mad shit in it. guano, earthworm castings etc. and im assuming making the tea is basically just making homemade bottled nutes. giving them ready immediate access where as the dry fertilizers are more of a slow release

but i seen it described as like juice with humans. like its healthy as fuck and rewarding to eat an apple, but if you drank a gallon of apple juice you're fucking up type deal, the healthiness of it is lost on you. sure your getting natural sugars and shit but since you don't break it down and digest it its not as good for you

but word i know this style of grow is pretty fringe from everything i've read ima give it a shot though. everyone has some type of soil mix and a rack of bottled nutrients and feed schedules and shit lol.

[uh-oh]

i actually just seen some other shit saying don't trust brands that say its prebuffered and do it yourself by soaking it in a cal mag solution for 8 hours

eddie you might be onto something here fam. i ain't gonna doubt you anymore. unless i find someone swearing by the canna prior to me using it lol

[Ouch]

look at this funny thibg.. like 15 years ago roughly... back in new york a few years after that I played uh-oh beat and niggas believed it because i was basially only with a computer.


I can remember the beatm or what it was but I lied to my friends as a kid saying I way uh-oh

[the Munster]

i actually just seen some other shit saying don't trust brands that say its prebuffered and do it yourself by soaking it in a cal mag solution for 8 hours

eddie you might be onto something here fam. i ain't gonna doubt you anymore. unless i find someone swearing by the canna prior to me using it lol

I never heard of the brand of coco dude in the vid uses but it’s very intriguing. He’s using coco straight up as if it’s soil. Adding all dry amendments and garden line is already in it as if it’s potting mix.

Like you said normally it would be buffered with liquid calmag. His is buffered with garden lime.

But yea coco takes whatever ph you water it with. Meaning if you water with 6.2 water you have nothing to worry about

If you water with 5.0 water, the ph will be 5.0

If you water with 8.0 water, the ph will be 8.0.

You don’t need nematodes. Sticky traps work perfect against gnats. You’re not using soil so it may not be as bad, and fungus gnats, as well as all pests generally appear when you overwater. So as long as you spend time with them, and get used to their habits, you should be fine.

[the Munster]

the canna coco is prewashed and buffered as well, but that just means its been rinsed of all the excess salts that accumulate, which can block your plants from uptaking nutes. it doesn't have lime added? . but word its rhp certified and has a ph of 5.9-7

the canna coco itself i mean. so its basically the same shit just a different brand. im worried about fungus gnats tho bout to cop sticky traps and NEMATOADS to be safe lol

but word i got some cal mag AIGHT. FUCK. nutrients wash out of coco easy when you're using bottled nutrients. which is why im going the organic dry shit. i don't want to use cal mag or any of that unless i absolutely have to. i don't know why im being stubborn on it. even tho theyre organic bottled nutrients its still weird to me pouring fluids other than water on it lol

but yea i know the PH is gonna be the key, i'm gonna shoot for 6.2 for all waterings, and gonna check my coco mix as well prior to planting anything, im guessing you can bring it down by just flushing it with a lower ph water? cuz the brick said it has a range of 5.9 to 7 right out of the bag.

but word the ph range you described is what the plants will actually need to absorb any nutrients. at least thats what im learning.

i seen him use dolomite lime? the dude in the vid but i feel it was a different scenario, maybe in one of the teas he used to save plants. but there was mad shit in it. guano, earthworm castings etc. and im assuming making the tea is basically just making homemade bottled nutes. giving them ready immediate access where as the dry fertilizers are more of a slow release

but i seen it described as like juice with humans. like its healthy as fuck and rewarding to eat an apple, but if you drank a gallon of apple juice you're fucking up type deal, the healthiness of it is lost on you. sure your getting natural sugars and shit but since you don't break it down and digest it its not as good for you

but word i know this style of grow is pretty fringe from everything i've read ima give it a shot though. everyone has some type of soil mix and a rack of bottled nutrients and feed schedules and shit lol.


Lol wherever you got that apple juice bit from, that person who said it does not understand how plants work or how compost tea works

Compost tea is a liquid form of microbiology. A fertilizer tea is when you take dry fertilizer and soak it, creating a solution. A nutrient tea is using bottled nutes to create a solution

I combine all three. Little bit here, little bit there. Recipe in particular for veg and one for flower. I also utilize extracts from other plant tissue in my teas as well. I think when you make a tea this way it’s called a plant extract tea. I use every ingredient I use and the ratio I use them in for Specific reasons. My kids pray to the Lord on a regular.


And yes you can use dolomite lime in a tea. Almost sounds like he was overdoing it. I wonder if he’s ever looked at his microbiology under the scope. Sometimes when you add too much to the water, the microbes run out of oxygen at an undesirable rate

[the Munster]

GO calmg+ or oilycann

[the Munster]

You know what THO I do not see where this mokoko has anything other than coco so idk about that part but I do know that you should listen to me to avoid crying when your kids die. Just use the liquid calmag you ordered

[uh-oh]

This is the shit I got
http://www.cannagardening.com/coco_brick

Washed & Buffered
CANNA COCO is washed, buffered and therefore ready for use.

Washed: Because coco palms grow near and on salt water, coco tissues contain large amounts of ions or salt. Salt can be very detrimental to plants when the occur above certain concentrations even though they generally are considered plant nutrients. In order to make coco suitable as a plant growth medium it needs to be washed. CANNA COCO is washed thoroughly with clean water so there is no need to rinse it yourself.

Buffered: Coco has what is considered a negative CEC (capacity of the substrate to retain and exchange water and nutrients).

The nutrients provided by the grower will be taken up by the medium and will not become available to the plant . This undesired effect must be prevented. In order to permanently stabilize the chemistry of the medium and its pH, CANNA has buffered its coco medium to make sure that the nutrients you give will go to the plant.
CANNA COCO is RHP certified for professional horticulture. This means it meets even higher requirements than other media that are RHP certified for consumer use (or not certified at all).

The RHP for Horticulture certification guarantees a clean and pure product that is free from weeds and pathogenic organisms and is suitable for professional use.

---------

Not steam sterilized too i guess that turns the shit to potassium and blocks can mag from the plants.

Since you mentioned It I did a deep dive and seen the science behind it. Basically if the coco is untreated it will steal the nutrients before your plants can. Mainly calcium and magnesium. The buffering process washes out some potassium ions and sodium and shit and replaces it with calcium and magnesium, so that the coco itself doesn't absorb any you put in it for the plants

So it makes sense but word. Gonna see how it goes

[Eŋg]

stellar work. bookmarked for further reference.

[the Munster]

This is the shit I got
http://www.cannagardening.com/coco_brick

Washed & Buffered
CANNA COCO is washed, buffered and therefore ready for use.

Washed: Because coco palms grow near and on salt water, coco tissues contain large amounts of ions or salt. Salt can be very detrimental to plants when the occur above certain concentrations even though they generally are considered plant nutrients. In order to make coco suitable as a plant growth medium it needs to be washed. CANNA COCO is washed thoroughly with clean water so there is no need to rinse it yourself.

Buffered: Coco has what is considered a negative CEC (capacity of the substrate to retain and exchange water and nutrients).

The nutrients provided by the grower will be taken up by the medium and will not become available to the plant . This undesired effect must be prevented. In order to permanently stabilize the chemistry of the medium and its pH, CANNA has buffered its coco medium to make sure that the nutrients you give will go to the plant.
CANNA COCO is RHP certified for professional horticulture. This means it meets even higher requirements than other media that are RHP certified for consumer use (or not certified at all).

The RHP for Horticulture certification guarantees a clean and pure product that is free from weeds and pathogenic organisms and is suitable for professional use.

---------

Not steam sterilized too i guess that turns the shit to potassium and blocks can mag from the plants.

Since you mentioned It I did a deep dive and seen the science behind it. Basically if the coco is untreated it will steal the nutrients before your plants can. Mainly calcium and magnesium. The buffering process washes out some potassium ions and sodium and shit and replaces it with calcium and magnesium, so that the coco itself doesn't absorb any you put in it for the plants

So it makes sense but word. Gonna see how it goes

Word I’ve used canna coco several times and even with cocotek too. No problems but all coco seems to be the same to me. I walk to the pet store and use that stuff too and don’t really see a difference or anything lol

I used to use coco to especially start seeds, like I would start all seeds in party cups with coco then transplant to one gallon soil. Now I just start out in the soil I hate coco now, just how you have to prepare the water every single day

[Witty]

This seems like a lot of effort for tomatoes.

[the Munster]

I got a lemon seed plant too. I planted a lemon seed last year. She’s about knee hi. Will post pic later tonight :)

[Hush]

Word I got some avacado plants and a orange tree


But Eddie where u getting ya “tomato seeds” from

[uh-oh]

i got some tomato seedlings goin now. i can't get the temps to drop in this fucking tent though. the humidity gets sucked right out with the exhaust fan, but if i slow or kill the exhaust fan the temps shoot to like 85.

i got a big AC for my upstairs like a wall unit. its chilly as hell up here but staying warm in the tent. i don't want to buy another AC because an air conditioner will pull like 3 times the wattage as my entire tent

i could leave the tent open but that kinda defeats the purpose, im losing reflection as well as making the whole place eventually reek of tomatoes.

i got 4 little fans moving the air around in there so its probably not bad i just remember seeing somewhere the ideal temp is 68-77. im stuck at around 79. is the two degrees gonna make a big difference the Munster ? i'll get another AC if i have to. maybe there is a cheap tiny option too i dunno, everything im seeing is either window mounted or even the portable ones you gotta run an exhaust out the window smh..

[uh-oh]

but word it sits around 59 percent humidity and 79 degrees at plant level

[the Munster]

i got some tomato seedlings goin now. i can't get the temps to drop in this fucking tent though. the humidity gets sucked right out with the exhaust fan, but if i slow or kill the exhaust fan the temps shoot to like 85.

i got a big AC for my upstairs like a wall unit. its chilly as hell up here but staying warm in the tent. i don't want to buy another AC because an air conditioner will pull like 3 times the wattage as my entire tent

i could leave the tent open but that kinda defeats the purpose, im losing reflection as well as making the whole place eventually reek of tomatoes.

i got 4 little fans moving the air around in there so its probably not bad i just remember seeing somewhere the ideal temp is 68-77. im stuck at around 79. is the two degrees gonna make a big difference the Munster ? i'll get another AC if i have to. maybe there is a cheap tiny option too i dunno, everything im seeing is either window mounted or even the portable ones you gotta run an exhaust out the window smh..

79 is fine. how Is the temperature where u live? Hot as fuck outside? Is it going to get worse?

In your situation, if you want thing cooler and you want to raise the humidity, the perfect thing to use would be an evaporative cooler, aka swamp cooler.

[the Munster]

Do you have your light on full power?

[uh-oh]

its been pretty hot, gonna be 93 today and tomorrow smh.

i think i've diagnosed a couple problems. im running tap water in the humidifier, i read that the calcium in tap water gets vaped and airborne as well, and can clog the carbon filter, which makes sense, cuz i've had the shit running since last saturday and at full blast, the air coming out of the duct is fairly slow. when i first fired it up it was blowing pretty good out the duct

the other problem is im just ducting the air into the same room. i don't want to run the duct out the window, so i've been looking at ways to maybe put in one of them little window fans that are short and have like 2-3 fans, and maybe just taping the end of the duct to one of them to blow it outside. my only concern there is i don't know how much stink the carbon filter is actually gonna kill. and the window is right above my back door which is where the parking lot for the 3 apartment/town houses are that im at, and where the landlord comes to drop off the water bill lol.

i thought about getting more duct, and running it from that room into this room where the AC is at, but i'll probably need another duct fan cuz im like i dunno 20-30 feet and a couple bends from my tent.

right now i got the humidifier off. it stays around 45-50% RH, but i wanted it closer to 70 during veg. since im in coco tho and i can't really over water im thinking if i keep the top soil nice and moist that should at least help where the humidity isnt? pseudo science i made up.

im also home during the weekend and when i open it up and peek in on them i can get the temp to drop just from opening it. im just worried about the work weeks, i come home and shits been like 81-85 all day. the plants seem fine, working on their second set of leaves, i mean they just broke through the surface tuesday.

long ass post my bad i got no one to talk to about this lol. i also thought maybe i can put the drivers for the light outside the tent, but i need pot stands/elevators. as low as i can put my light is like 26'' from the tops of them. its recommended 24 for my light so they might be stretching a bit already. but putting the drivers out i'd have to raise my light like another 10'' to reach. right now i got them ziptied up in the corner so theyre away from everything but im not sure how much they're adding to the heat

i shouldve just done this in the winter, and not literally at the hottest time of year. but i gotta figure it out one way or the other since im gonna be trying to have something going year round, only down time will be when i harvest and am drying in the tent since i can control the enviornment in there. so once cut down, 7-10 days or so before i'll be sprouting the next batch

[uh-oh]

Do you have your light on full power?

yea thats the other thing. they got a dimmer function, BUT its two dimmers, one for each side, and I don't want to make it uneven. its a screw, not a knob, and i think i'll need a wattage meter, to dim them one at a time and make sure each side is pulling even watts.

[the Munster]

its been pretty hot, gonna be 93 today and tomorrow smh.

i think i've diagnosed a couple problems. im running tap water in the humidifier, i read that the calcium in tap water gets vaped and airborne as well, and can clog the carbon filter, which makes sense, cuz i've had the shit running since last saturday and at full blast, the air coming out of the duct is fairly slow. when i first fired it up it was blowing pretty good out the duct

the other problem is im just ducting the air into the same room. i don't want to run the duct out the window, so i've been looking at ways to maybe put in one of them little window fans that are short and have like 2-3 fans, and maybe just taping the end of the duct to one of them to blow it outside. my only concern there is i don't know how much stink the carbon filter is actually gonna kill. and the window is right above my back door which is where the parking lot for the 3 apartment/town houses are that im at, and where the landlord comes to drop off the water bill lol.

i thought about getting more duct, and running it from that room into this room where the AC is at, but i'll probably need another duct fan cuz im like i dunno 20-30 feet and a couple bends from my tent.

right now i got the humidifier off. it stays around 45-50% RH, but i wanted it closer to 70 during veg. since im in coco tho and i can't really over water im thinking if i keep the top soil nice and moist that should at least help where the humidity isnt? pseudo science i made up.

im also home during the weekend and when i open it up and peek in on them i can get the temp to drop just from opening it. im just worried about the work weeks, i come home and shits been like 81-85 all day. the plants seem fine, working on their second set of leaves, i mean they just broke through the surface tuesday.

long ass post my bad i got no one to talk to about this lol. i also thought maybe i can put the drivers for the light outside the tent, but i need pot stands/elevators. as low as i can put my light is like 26'' from the tops of them. its recommended 24 for my light so they might be stretching a bit already. but putting the drivers out i'd have to raise my light like another 10'' to reach. right now i got them ziptied up in the corner so theyre away from everything but im not sure how much they're adding to the heat

i shouldve just done this in the winter, and not literally at the hottest time of year. but i gotta figure it out one way or the other since im gonna be trying to have something going year round, only down time will be when i harvest and am drying in the tent since i can control the enviornment in there. so once cut down, 7-10 days or so before i'll be sprouting the next batch

I don’t know shit about that tap water calcium shit with the humidifier I say k.i.s.s. in response tho. Also look to replace humidifier with evaporative cooler.

Can you run your light at night? 8 hours off could be during hottest part of day?

Can you install fake door to replace door in room that tent is in and put holes in it to exhaust/intake?

[the Munster]

And if your going to get an ac or need one I would absolutely consider getting gavita pro 1000w de hps and returning that light that you basically paid the same price for and use some light bulbs until your new light arrives

[uh-oh]

i'd post pics in here but i feel weird about it lol. you got discord?


i think i did some simple tweaks that will work. my carbon filter sleeve was covered in calcium, once i took it off my exhaust fan was CRANKING and cooled it down quick.

i had everything centered too, which took like a foot off my exhaust link, but i moved it to the back and its basically all right out the tent now, and rigged it up to the ceiling so the exhaust tube makes it almost to the door.

i think the temps should be stable now, and the humidity is staying around 50-55 without the humidifier so im not even gonna use it tbh

[the Munster]

yea thats the other thing. they got a dimmer function, BUT its two dimmers, one for each side, and I don't want to make it uneven. its a screw, not a knob, and i think i'll need a wattage meter, to dim them one at a time and make sure each side is pulling even watts.

Lol damn they got you. They sell a light meter/soil ph/something else meter at Lowe’s for like $14. It’s analog but it’s better than nothing and I actually use it to gauge whether kids are getting enough light it works well. The ph part did not work well imo. Well it kind of does you just have to let it sit in the soil for like 5 minutes and the instructions don’t say that

[the Munster]

Box fan diy filter

[uh-oh]

Lol damn they got you. They sell a light meter/soil ph/something else meter at Lowe’s for like $14. It’s analog but it’s better than nothing and I actually use it to gauge whether kids are getting enough light it works well. The ph part did not work well imo. Well it kind of does you just have to let it sit in the soil for like 5 minutes and the instructions don’t say that

oh word? i actually have one of those, it said my ph was like 8, but thats just sticking it in, tbh it never moved whether in the coco or out. the light thing seems to work, i forget the reading but it was pretty much the same next to each plant, i wanna say halfway. and its gotta moisture reading too.

i got the thing to ph the soil but i actually ordered a bluelabs ph pen that does soil and fluid supposed to be coming today. i didn't trust that thing in the soil or the cheap ph meter i got for my water.

but yea they're so young i doubt the enviornment is affecting them yet, im just trying to get the enviornment dialed in asap. i cleaned the sleeve for my filter and its still blowing strong all hooked up so i think im in the clear now


HYPE for the next couple weeks.

[the Munster]

Man autos are tricky for new people imo. Because if you fuck up especially in the first three weeks your plant is going to be small asf. But I have faith in you


Just make sure to check them for heat or light stress. New growth is light green. Light stress is yellow, with the leaves praying but praying TOO MUCH. They can look the same at times.

But 80 degrees they should be fine you just have to make sure they don’t get too much light. The cooler it is, the more light they can take. By middle I’m assuming you mean the light meter is saying something around 750?. That’s pretty good, and you want to keep them around that so you may need to adjust the light as they grow. Once they get to around 1000 you’ll notice some differences in the way the respond to the light. You can get it this hi but you have to gradually raise the brightness for them so they aren’t overwhelmed. If they are leaning towards the light then they probably need a little more light. With mine ~500 is fine for them, they don’t even stretch toward the light at that intensity. But with a de hps of course


When you tried to soil meter part was the soil wet?

Blue lab meter are the shit too that’s what professionals use. Good choice

[the Munster]

And idk what discord is perhaps I can make an account?

[uh-oh]

yea discord is like a chat thing. Its an app you can make an account and join different channels. I joined a mr goodbuds channel too hes a YouTube grower dude and the community is solid with helping. But there is a netcees channel too i gave you an invite too but I think the invite dies after a day

But yea its like a chat room thing but you can post pics and shit on it

[uh-oh]

also i might be scorching em. The light meter is at like 1200 lmaooooo at plant level. It sticks around 78 degrees and I got the light about 24 inches from them but they're praying for sure. Ones a bit behind but their second set of leaves is going pretty decent when I left this morning

Hoping they're them 3 leafers when I get home after 5.

The light recommends 24" during veg but I dont know when the seedling phase turns to the veg stage? For seedings it said 32"

[uh-oh]

also i see people who use my light dim it but the manual says nothing about dimming them so I'm just going off distance

[uh-oh]

One last thing before I punch in tho I'm not sure what the light meter is measuring, lux/lumens? Or par? Not sure the difference or what they are lol. But its the soil meter thing that tells moisture ph and light.

The blue labs thing is sick tho. My soil is all around 6.0

Phing my water around that as well but im getting mixed advice. Since its coco people say to ph like its hydroponic, but im not using liquid nutes so I've seen others say to treat it like a mix of soil/hydroponics since the dry nutes need more of a 6.0 to 6.5

I guess if it was liquid it'd be 5.5 to 6.0

Ima just keep it around 6.2 and hope for the best lol

[the Munster]

One last thing before I punch in tho I'm not sure what the light meter is measuring, lux/lumens? Or par? Not sure the difference or what they are lol. But its the soil meter thing that tells moisture ph and light.

The blue labs thing is sick tho. My soil is all around 6.0

Phing my water around that as well but im getting mixed advice. Since its coco people say to ph like its hydroponic, but im not using liquid nutes so I've seen others say to treat it like a mix of soil/hydroponics since the dry nutes need more of a 6.0 to 6.5

I guess if it was liquid it'd be 5.5 to 6.0

Ima just keep it around 6.2 and hope for the best lol

Shit is tricky. Because your not growing traditionally. 6.5 every single time is what I would do since that is the only ph that is perfect for both hydro and coco. And I’m pretty sure the meter is lumens. 1200 is pretty hi. Yea I need to figure discord shit out because I would like to see pics

You can’t base it off of the the manufacturers recommendation for the light distance each plant is literally different. You should start around 32 and adjust as they reach for the light. Unless you think they’re fine but they are not in veg yet they need like 5-6 sets of leaves before they are in veg and then once they reach the width of the pot that is when autos generally flip

[the Munster]

And you need to be watering with calmag 5 mil per gal. 6.5 every time you will be killin it if you do that

[uh-oh]

im doing a teaspoon of calmag per gallon, just googled and word thats 5 ml. the general hydroponics calmag

all though it was a bit offputting cuz i had that one dude i linked's video up and in one he addressed the calmag thing saying he never uses it in his coco cuz its buffered and doesn't have any deficiency problems as long as he follows his feeding schedule

but i dunno, as long as the plants aint getting harmed by it ima keep using it because i read coco will break down and more receptors open over time so even if its buffered it can steal more calcium and magnesium from the plants.

theyre chugging along

i'll pm another discord invite. just download the app from the appstore its free. the discussion board is basically that now lol

but word today is technically day 6, they sprouted out the EARTH tuesday last week. wedding cake autos

[the Munster]

Whoever said it was buffered and he doesn’t have problems he’s full of shit I guarantee you